Jagmohan Sangha's travelogue - Khalil Gibran’s LEBANON
Lebanon’s rich history and cultural identity supplemented with a plethora of attractions for tourists make it as one of the Middle East’s must-visit places on the itinerary of avid travelers. Jagmohan Sangha visited Lebanon recently and shares his experience with the readers of Times of Oman.
Lebanon’s rich history and cultural identity supplemented with a plethora of attractions for tourists make it as one of the Middle East’s must-visit places on the itinerary of avid travelers. Mesmerizing coast line, breath-taking lush-green valleys, ancient churches, mosques and historical sites combined with modern day night life and vibrant shopping arcades catch the fancy of every tourist to Lebanon.
“Welcome to this beautiful country”, says the cab driver as he puts my trolley in the boot. It is drizzling and fresh cool air welcomes you as you drive out of the airport. I like the passion and patriotism with which cab driver speaks about the country that has been invaded and troubled many times. One can still see the dilapidated buildings and debris as you drive past the roads of Beirut. My knowledge about the country was limited to what little I had conceived about it through Khalil Gibran’s writings. He was undoubtedly one of the best poets and writers of Middle East. Born in Lebanon, he spent most of his life in the United States. Having traced the footsteps of Khalil Gibran in Boston and Washington, visiting his country was nothing short of a pilgrimage for me.
Lebanon is a historian’s delight. It is not uncommon to see guides talking about 8000 BC and prior when showing historical places. One such place is Byblos in suburban Beirut, which is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Remnants of prehistoric huts were found here which belong to the communities that lived on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea about ten thousand years ago. Narrow lanes paved with small stones take you through shops selling souvenirs with friendly Lebanese folk behind the counters, to the lovely shores of the sea.
Lebanon has a very diverse population, comprising different ethnic and religious groups. In-fact, the posts of President, Prime Minister, Speaker and deputy- Speaker of the parliament are divided between Christian and Muslim communities and within that into specific sub-sects. Lebanese are by and large very modern, cultured and educated people. Beirut alone can boast of several good universities. Country is considered as Asia’s gateway to Europe and vice-versa. Beirut is not only a political capital of the country but also a cultural and financial capital of Lebanon. City is a labyrinth of alleys adorned with houses having wrought iron and wood carvings that portray the elegance of Lebanese architecture.
One of the most magnificent visiting sites is Lady of Harissa. Built in 19th century, Virgin Mary’s statue weighs over 20 tons and it stands at an altitude of 600 m. Place provides a panoramic view to the visitors and has a curled staircase leading to the top with a chapel at the base. Word famous Jeita grotto caves are a big tourist attraction too. The place was a finalist for one of the wonders of the world and millions of people voted for the same.
As we drove past lush green valleys and winding roads up in the mountains on way to Bsharri, Khalil Gibran’s place, endless rows of wild flowers with their heads tossing in fresh morning breeze, accompanied us throughout the journey. We had to make enquiries couple of times before reaching Bsharri, a picturesque small town surrounded by snow clad mountains during a summer month. His birth place, a one room museum is preserved well in its original form. A bed, a broken chair and some other household articles take you back into the last century and one tries tracing footprints in the non-cemented room of a man who was not only a great poet and writer but also an exceptionally talented sculpture. There are windows on two walls of the room. One window provide a view of Khalil Gibran’s statue erected in a small garden outside the room and through the other window a magnificent chapel painted with bright colours can be seen, about a kilometer away. A five minutes drive away is Gibran Museum, his rest place.
Though Khalil Gibran died in New York, he had expressed his desire to be buried at his native place in Lebanon. His long time friend Mary Haskell and his sister Mariana were instrumental in fulfilling this wish and thus Gibran Museum was established at his native village. As one walks through the museum, Khalil Gibran’s multifaceted personality unfolds through his paintings, writings, sculptures and other personal belongings.
By the time I left the place, valley had been engulfed by dark grey clouds and it was drizzling. Cool breeze combined with smell of wild flowers amongst the rows of Cedar trees had tranquilizing effect on the atmosphere. Perhaps this was the place where Khalil Gibran had written his famous poem “A Tear and a Smile”. How aptly he had written:
And the cloud floats above the hills and valleys
Until it meets the gentle breeze, then falls weeping
To the fields and joins with brooks and rivers to return to the sea, its home.
The life of clouds is a parting and a meeting.
- A tear and a smile.
………jagmohansangha@gmail.com
Lebanon’s rich history and cultural identity supplemented with a plethora of attractions for tourists make it as one of the Middle East’s must-visit places on the itinerary of avid travelers. Jagmohan Sangha visited Lebanon recently and shares his experience with the readers of Times of Oman.
Lebanon’s rich history and cultural identity supplemented with a plethora of attractions for tourists make it as one of the Middle East’s must-visit places on the itinerary of avid travelers. Mesmerizing coast line, breath-taking lush-green valleys, ancient churches, mosques and historical sites combined with modern day night life and vibrant shopping arcades catch the fancy of every tourist to Lebanon.
“Welcome to this beautiful country”, says the cab driver as he puts my trolley in the boot. It is drizzling and fresh cool air welcomes you as you drive out of the airport. I like the passion and patriotism with which cab driver speaks about the country that has been invaded and troubled many times. One can still see the dilapidated buildings and debris as you drive past the roads of Beirut. My knowledge about the country was limited to what little I had conceived about it through Khalil Gibran’s writings. He was undoubtedly one of the best poets and writers of Middle East. Born in Lebanon, he spent most of his life in the United States. Having traced the footsteps of Khalil Gibran in Boston and Washington, visiting his country was nothing short of a pilgrimage for me.
Lebanon is a historian’s delight. It is not uncommon to see guides talking about 8000 BC and prior when showing historical places. One such place is Byblos in suburban Beirut, which is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Remnants of prehistoric huts were found here which belong to the communities that lived on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea about ten thousand years ago. Narrow lanes paved with small stones take you through shops selling souvenirs with friendly Lebanese folk behind the counters, to the lovely shores of the sea.
Lebanon has a very diverse population, comprising different ethnic and religious groups. In-fact, the posts of President, Prime Minister, Speaker and deputy- Speaker of the parliament are divided between Christian and Muslim communities and within that into specific sub-sects. Lebanese are by and large very modern, cultured and educated people. Beirut alone can boast of several good universities. Country is considered as Asia’s gateway to Europe and vice-versa. Beirut is not only a political capital of the country but also a cultural and financial capital of Lebanon. City is a labyrinth of alleys adorned with houses having wrought iron and wood carvings that portray the elegance of Lebanese architecture.
One of the most magnificent visiting sites is Lady of Harissa. Built in 19th century, Virgin Mary’s statue weighs over 20 tons and it stands at an altitude of 600 m. Place provides a panoramic view to the visitors and has a curled staircase leading to the top with a chapel at the base. Word famous Jeita grotto caves are a big tourist attraction too. The place was a finalist for one of the wonders of the world and millions of people voted for the same.
As we drove past lush green valleys and winding roads up in the mountains on way to Bsharri, Khalil Gibran’s place, endless rows of wild flowers with their heads tossing in fresh morning breeze, accompanied us throughout the journey. We had to make enquiries couple of times before reaching Bsharri, a picturesque small town surrounded by snow clad mountains during a summer month. His birth place, a one room museum is preserved well in its original form. A bed, a broken chair and some other household articles take you back into the last century and one tries tracing footprints in the non-cemented room of a man who was not only a great poet and writer but also an exceptionally talented sculpture. There are windows on two walls of the room. One window provide a view of Khalil Gibran’s statue erected in a small garden outside the room and through the other window a magnificent chapel painted with bright colours can be seen, about a kilometer away. A five minutes drive away is Gibran Museum, his rest place.
Though Khalil Gibran died in New York, he had expressed his desire to be buried at his native place in Lebanon. His long time friend Mary Haskell and his sister Mariana were instrumental in fulfilling this wish and thus Gibran Museum was established at his native village. As one walks through the museum, Khalil Gibran’s multifaceted personality unfolds through his paintings, writings, sculptures and other personal belongings.
By the time I left the place, valley had been engulfed by dark grey clouds and it was drizzling. Cool breeze combined with smell of wild flowers amongst the rows of Cedar trees had tranquilizing effect on the atmosphere. Perhaps this was the place where Khalil Gibran had written his famous poem “A Tear and a Smile”. How aptly he had written:
And the cloud floats above the hills and valleys
Until it meets the gentle breeze, then falls weeping
To the fields and joins with brooks and rivers to return to the sea, its home.
The life of clouds is a parting and a meeting.
- A tear and a smile.
………jagmohansangha@gmail.com
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